Author Archive

Avant Toi: The Colors of Karijini

Hand-painted, brushed and misted with custom colors devised by designer Mirko Ghignone and his team, Avant Toi’s complex knits are a celebration of the natural palette.

In their crimson and rust tones for the season, we found the inspiration of Karijini National Park – a sweeping landscape of canyons and cliffsides in Western Australia.

Waterfall in the Hancock Gorge, Karijini National Park.

Avant Toi’s scarves are often favorites for fall, for both their versatility and sumptuous hand. Thanks to a double layer of cashmere and silk, they are weighted perfectly to drape over the shoulder or be worn as a wrap.

In taking the time to apply the dye to the pieces individually, Mirko transforms Avant Toi’s knits into a feat of creativity. The artistry across the collection is obvious from both afar and up close. The drips, speckles and splatters are unique to each garment they grace.

Water flows inside a narrow gorge in Karijini National Park.

Despite their incredible softness – the core allure of great Italian cashmere, even more so when the fibres are blended with silk – these are pieces made for living in. Avant Toi wears well no matter the trek – as a warming layer for hiking through red-rock gorges; as a pop of color for strolling through an oak-lined city avenue; or as a bit of softness against the skin when shuffling down the hallway just after a Sunday nap.

A Closer Look at Dries Van Noten

For Dries Van Noten, inspiration lives just beyond the front door.

Nature has always been Dries Van Noten’s driving motif, but to step out into his garden is to understand its impact on his eye in a new way. At his Belgian home, Dries Van Noten designs among a world rich in whimsy and sophistication. Sprays of peonies and geraniums line stone pathways, leading to a glassy pond that reflects the natural world like a mirror. In fall, red and orange oak leaves quietly glide across its surface – influences we see clearly in his latest offerings for Fall/ Winter 2023.

The stand-out piece in this collection of stand-out pieces is Dries Van Noten’s Remis Coat. This intricate, anorak-inspired shape is Dries’ full artistry on display. Metallic threads shimmer down the coat’s main weave, matched by daubs of glitter and gold hiding within velvet florals. Intended to be easy to wear while still eye-catching, the silhouette is simple and clever. A solid panel down the opening of the coat gives the illusion of a lapel without the extra bulk. The velvet florals are stitched across a sheer gauze, which is then layered across the pin-stripe panels of the jacket’s shoulders. This effect adds dimension to the overall work, shifting the viewers perspective as they experience the different angles of the piece.

Quilting, applique and stitchwork dominate this delivery, drawing the eye – and hand – closer to the small, tactile elements of each garment. This latest delivery is Dries Van Noten at his best, contrasting disparate moments of pageantry and intimacy across the collection – much like the gardens of its origin. Rich in autumnal tones of ocher and rust, it feels as if he has tip-toed out to the edge of his pond and gilded the falling leaves as they float by.

Tovi Farber: Echoing Antiquity

The history of gold can be traced back to the beginnings of civilization itself, revered for its luster and warmth.

Worn for ceremony, celebration and the pure pleasure of personal adornment, this metal was just as treasured 6000 years ago as it is today. For Tovi Farber, working with gold is both a challenge and an opportunity – to explore and reinvent age-old jewelry conventions while still echoing the antiquity of its roots.

Desert Cities in the Negev © OUR PLACE The World Heritage Collection

Like a series of framed photos, square-cut sapphires shine out from the handcrafted bezels of Tovi Farber’s take on an eternity band. From afar, the gold seems to be merely textured. A peek closer reveals dozens of tiny circles carved over its surface.

Kept as natural as possible, the faceted diamonds that stud out from within these hoops are reminiscent of the rugged stones found throughout desert cities and fallen ruins of the Negev Desert beyond Tel Aviv.

In crafting this way, with texture and organic beauty at the forefront, Tovi Farber seems to capture moments from a time long forgotten. Tovi Farber’s pieces feel as if they have existed for a millennia, unearthed from an ancient trove beneath the sands of the Negev. It’s a lot to consider, the centuries of layered influence that trickle into contemporary adornment… What an honor it is to hold them in our hands.

Masada is an ancient fortress in the Judaean Desert overlooking the Dead Sea © UNESCO

Album di Famiglia: Fall in the Faroe Islands

Upon opening the Album di Famiglia Fall Collection, we felt a rush of traveled nostalgia – the kind that comes from waking before the sun rises, walking through wild grasses laced with dew, or thumbing through an heirloom book in a darkened library.

Layers of crumply cotton velvet and nubby handknit sweaters feel like a postcard mailed with love from a far off place, or a far off time – particularly, the rolling hills of Saksun, a remote village tucked in the Faroe Islands.

The Múlafossur Waterfall falls directly into the North Atlantic from Gásadalur village.

The overall palette of Album di Famiglia’s collection is a subtle celebration of autumn’s subtle changing colors. Rusty red and rich olive are the stand-out tones among Album di Famiglia’s charcoal and cream offerings for the season.

Velvet, a typically formal fabric, is casualized through Album di Famiglia’s approach, making it more and more accessible for daily wear without sacrificing its inherent elegance. In both their trousers and jumper styles, this textile is cut and sewn to create pieces totally cozy and wearable.

Traditional stone and wooden houses with grass roofs in the Faroes.

After donning this collection, you’ll find us wandering the lush of Saksun’s hillsides, our knapsack packed with a thermos of hot tea, a soft red hat and a well-loved compendium of Danish folklore. A flock of sheep baa quietly in the distance, roaming the land in search of fresh grass. The sun begins to peek through the fog and we nestle ourselves into the pasture to watch the afternoon sky bloom.

Drangarnir cliffs on Vágar Island.

Frenckenberger’s Cashmere Counterculture

After years of living in the midst of fashion creativity in Paris, designers Terry-Ann Frencken and Nathalie Berger design knits intended to meet the needs of mountain living – with a wink to the seductive feel of cashmere on the (naked) body.

From Rick Owens to Schönenberger, the duo have cut their teeth at houses renowned for luxury on the edge. Today, their portmanteau label, Frenckenberger combines their deep industry expertise with a free-spirited approach to dressing.

Taking inspiration from the designer’s photoshoots with Terry-Ann’s horse, we explored the wilds of Switzerland to find Silvaplana – a beautiful chain of lakes surrounded by picturesque rocky peaks.

Made from the softest Mongolian cashmere, Frenckenberger’s collections are created with utility in mind – nubby sweaters cut at the hip, oversized jackets to wear like shawls and sweeping cardigans as cozy as they are classical.

The studio, at its core, is a touch rock-and-roll. A selection of felted hats reminiscent of old-school fedoras, in both classic taupe and peacock blue, are a subtle nod to Terry-Ann and Nathalie’s haute-couture roots.

The Matterhorn stretches above the hamlet of Findeln in Zermatt, Switzerland. Chilled winds rolling down the mountain’s peaks reminds us that cashmere is a winter necessity.

While Frenckenberger’s sweaters hold the splendor of their more formal cousins, and certainly garner the same textural adoration, think of Frenckenberger’s cashmere as the rebel of the family. With inspiration taken from counterculture and a cool sophistication born from lived experience, Terry-Ann and Nathalie’s designs are stylish and easy. And, as luxurious as this textile feels against the skin, these are pieces to live, love and feel totally liberated in – pairing best with wild hair, wild adventures and a wild attitude.

Gilda Midani: Night as Day

Following her journey through the canyons at midnight, Gilda Midani sets her sights out to sea.

The skies above Gilda Midani’s native Rio darken to blue and black as evening falls – a stellar tapestry that washes into an ocean just as serene. In dye baths replete with indigo and cerulean, Gilda Midani dips her pieces by hand to reveal a depth of intense color.

© Darren Almond, Full Moon

The core design for this collection, Blue Row, is an ode to blue in all its forms. Striking and organic, a succession of lapis, azure and periwinkle surges against the others like tides on white sand.

The unseen beauty of Gilda Midani’s clothing lies in her keen eye for drape. The way Gilda Midani’s dresses, shirts and pants – often linen, cotton and silky velvet – flow against the form is just as important as the way her colors and patterns meld in her compositions.

Floating amongst the currents of Gilda Midani’s Blue Row is a feeling of vastness – not unlike the inspiration found in Darren Almond’s moon-exposed photography. The pattern sweeps in two directions, revealing space in the middle of the garment – simultaneously a wink and a dismissal of nature’s symmetry. We are awed not only by how incredibly difficult these dyes are to perfect, or how soft the textiles feel against skin… but by how a wash of blue across cotton can immediately transport us to a shore after dusk. The ability to do all these things, with such clear pleasure in doing so… therein lies the power of Gilda Midani and her work.

“Limitless and immortal, the waters are the beginning and end of all things on earth.”

— Heinrich Zimmer

Gilda Midani: Day as Night

Deeply inspired by the organic surroundings of her Brazilian studio, Gilda Midani is never far from nature.

Gilda Midani’s hand-dyed clothing line is a marvel. She captures the immense emotion of the environment through abstract color and pattern. Akin to the artwork of Darren Almond – a British photographer who specializes in landscapes exposed solely by the full moon – Gilda Midani’s Fall/ Winter 2023 collection reveals a panorama of earthy brown and red, softened by the dark tones of night.

© Darren Almond, Full Moon

Cotton corduroy tops and egg pants are a treat we only see in Gilda Midani’s fall collections. Not only are they soft to the hand, but the material takes dye incredibly well – leading to an intense presentation of color across these styles.

French terry, a smoother and softer knit than its terrycloth cousin, features prominently in Gilda Midani’s hoodie selection. Stylish and sporty while maintaining Gilda Midani’s key earthiness, these pieces are among our favorites season after season.

© Darren Almond, Full Moon

Gilda Midani’s designs invite delicious curiosity – the scope of her abstracted vista is too broad to comprehend with just one look. Her designs are far from artificial or trite. This vital tangle of dyes is informed by centuries of spirituality and symbolism born from the mingling of cultures of Brazil. To consider her collections, one must consent to be swept through this world of primal, ancestral aesthetics, stand at the precipice of Gilda’s canyon of color and dive in without hesitation.

“In the dark of a moonless night, the canyon suggests unimaginable mysteries.”

— John Wesley Powell

In Pursuit of Beauty with Massimo Palomba

An interview with Eva and Massimo Palomba

With a strong background in the fashion industry, partners in life and work Eva and Massimo Palomba create leather accessories of the highest quality. Their numbered, limited edition bags communicate understated elegance in silhouettes, colorways and finishes whose beauty only deepens over time. In anticipation of their latest collection, we sat down with Eva to learn more about the duo’s inspiration, process and specialized techniques.

Where did you get your start in the fashion industry?

After studying Art and Design, Massimo learned the art of leatherworking in a Tuscan atelier and then designed for Prada and Jil Sander. I studied Fashion and Patternmaking before collaborating as a patternmaker at Jil Sander Atelier and Versace. Since 2000, we have created the Massimo Palomba collection together, sharing it with an international audience.

What inspires you and keeps you motivated?

We believe that beautiful things create joy. This is the motor, the passion which propels us everyday. Inspiration comes from life. The observation of the beauty around us, wherever it can be found: nature, art, people in the street.

Can you tell us about your dyeing process?

Vegetable tanning — based on the use of tannin, a natural substance extracted from different plants — is the most traditional tanning method; it is both natural and environmentally friendly. Vegetable tanned leather absorbs the traces of our lives and ages naturally, becoming softer and richer in color, adding value to our pieces over time.

How do you create your custom casted hardware?

We design each buckle which is then cast, polished and refined by hand in sterling silver, bronze or silver plated brass. Massimo prepares the prototype of each buckle in sculptural wax or in metal. Everything is done by hand; piece by piece.

What is one thing people might not know about your production process?

Environment and social sustainability with respect to the Planet is of great importance to us. Our accessories are sustainable in nature and meant to be enjoyed for a lifetime.

What is the most satisfying part of this work?

We’re convinced that creating objects fulfills an innate need. Knowing that the things we make are destined to belong to other people adds a sense of responsibility to our efforts. We hope that the passion with which we create will translate to the people who will own our pieces.

Contemporary Antique: A Tentative Atelier

Within the creative minds of Nam Tsang and Pauline Yuen is a world replete with beauty: great literature, fine fabrics, global culture and Chinese aesthetic history all meld into their shared design eye.

Born from this intellectual union of fashion, freedom and high artistry is their label, A Tentative Atelier. For Fall/ Winter 2023 the duo dove down the rabbit hole into the storied realm of Lewis Carrol, and spun their own tale of romance, curiosity and old world elegance… with just a hint of refined wildness.

A Tentative Atelier’s collection centers on a selection of coats and jackets, some of which nod to 18th century English riding wear and others to the fine suiting details of New York in the Roaring 20s. The designs are simultaneously high taste and a touch Victorian.

Of note is the duo’s use of textile as a sculptural medium – silken knots, shredded fabric florals and intricate jacquards all sing from within their designs. Within their collection find a tactile wonderland of tufted virgin wool, hand-smocked linen and vegetable silk. Their cashmere, sourced from the famed Loro Piana mill in Italy, is particularly exquisite and buttery against the skin.

A reversal of expectations – Pauline and Nam’s favorite creative mode – forms the foundation of their works. A patch pocket knit may read as just that from the front, but a peek on the backside reveals a row of mother of pearl buttons in a cardigan closure. In details such as this, they celebrate the art of garment – surprising, exciting, inventive (and just a little bit mad!) all at once.

Welcoming Fall

With deliveries reaching us from Milan, Hong Kong, Rio de Janeiro and beyond we find a renewed love for the season, our designers and what we do here at the stores. In between exploring these new textures and textiles, we’d like to share our thoughts as we move into fall. 

What is pre-fall?
Pre-fall is dedicated to the core styles for a designer. These are their best, most tested designs. They tend to be lighter weight, year-round clothes that should not be overlooked. 

What can we look forward to?
The color palette explodes exponentially, allowing us almost infinite possibilities. Silk, cashmere, baby alpaca and virgin wool, all cold weather textiles, tend to dye in much richer ways than the linens and cottons of spring. 

What is most important for this season?
If you are really looking for the best pieces – and we recommend this to everyone… fewer and more high-quality additions to your closet is the goal – then don’t get caught up in the timing of weather. The best coats could arrive in early September and the best tee-shirts could come in mid-November. 

What brings inspiration?
The possibility of change always inspires – and even more so: taking steps towards change. As humans we are always seeking meaning in the world around us and those new thoughts, new beliefs, new priorities need to be recognized and put into practice in many ways. And fall is ripe with this opportunity – to redefine the self, whether through dress or other ways, and to drive that new change into the world around us. 

In fashion and home, pre-fall and fall are seasons for the artist in all of us. The necessity of layering encourages us to think more about the interplay of color, texture and design. It’s a bit like painting, to build up different elements and present your own composition. 

This is the time where the quality of the materials delivers us the most unique textures. And the more handcrafted the piece, the more tactility and excitement emerge from the landscape of your layers. Like all great artists, these elements are reflected in how we perceive and influence the world. Even past how we dress, the opportunity for renewal allows us to discover our best selves. 

We look forward to sharing more inspiration as the season unfolds.

Best, 
Shobhan & the Team

Vogue: Fall 2023

Where to Shop

“Directly below Shiprock you’ll find Santa Fe Dry Goods—the only store in Santa Fe that carries labels like The Row, Dries Van Noten, Issey Miyake, and Lemaire. Their neighboring home store, Wild Life, carries brands including Mad et Len and Astier de Villatte.”

Press clipping from: “Haunted Inns and Desert Dreams: The Seductive Charms of Santa Fe” by Alexandra Malmed

Jan-Jan Van Essche’s Purity of Design

Of all the things Jan-Jan Van Essche celebrates in his designs, texture and textile come first.

Jan-Jan Van Essche’s pieces are flowing and nondescript, but undeniably well-made. A quick peek at his construction reveals the hand of a textile genius, who only needs two or three seams to form an exquisite piece. His lightweight wool chiffon and silken cottons sit lightly on the skin, while still being an excellent layer for cooler weather to come. Though the collection is rendered largely in black, a vein of ochre runs through this delivery – an ode to all things earthy.

For fall, Jan-Jan Van Essche found inspiration in Pina Bausch’s ballet, “The Rite of Spring.” During this performance, dancers draped in white cotton glide across a stage covered in soil – a visual feast celebrating the seasonal rhythms of the natural world. As the dancers turn, leap and tumble, the dirt smudges across their bodies like ceremonial paint.

Jan-Jan Van Essche revels in the same raw qualities that drew Pina – the richness of color, the indomitability of the human spirit, the inevitable evolutions of the self and the purity of the natural world. Just as we are shaped by the environment around us, so do we shape our wardrobes.

Rather than try to redefine personal style, Jan-Jan Van Essche designs his works to seamlessly integrate into the world of the person wearing them. This objective approach to design and purist treatment of fabric gifts his pieces a chameleon-like quality – they pair just as well with silk pants and patent leather loafers as they do with distressed jeans and a kicky pair of boots.

“I think if people feel relaxed and comfortable, that’s such a guarantee for beauty…”

— Jan-Jan Van Essche

Greig Porter Grasshopper Turquoise

When considering Greig Porter’s jewelry, the first thing that comes to mind is vibrant color.

It is the guiding line in Greig Porter’s jewelry collection and what attracts him to the specific stones he selects. Of note from his studio is this striking necklace made with Grasshopper Turquoise that marries the iridescent green of this stone with an 18K gold bezel.

Set in a collar style, the stones are presented in the most natural and pure shape to highlight the incredible color. Within each setting, fractals of soft green shimmer from within the tawny rock matrix.

This distinctive green turquoise originates from the Grasshopper Mine in Nevada, the only mine of its kind. It’s an incredibly small operation and only produces a small volume of the stone each year – making Grasshopper one of the rarest types of turquoise to find. A designer of deep patience, Greig collected these particular stones over the course of four years before crafting this piece.

Caramel Caravan

As cooler weather flows in from the mountains, pre-fall colors take their place for an exciting season ahead.

Of all the hues twinned to this time of year, the most versatile is caramel. Call it toffee, butterscotch or cinnamon (a delicious series!), caramel is a foundational hue for the cool weather wardrobe. Lighter shades of white, cream and peach pair perfectly with its natural depth. And, in a few weeks, swap out the light tones for richer ones, such as gold, olive, dark orange and rust, to luxuriate in the full autumnal palette.

Autumn Footwear

Suede boots and cuoio top grain leathers make the perfect complement for a caramel-inspired wardrobe. Intended for regular wear, these materials function well in all weather. A quick brushing after rain exposure will keep suede looking fresh and lovely. Leather in these lighter hues will also endure without issue – Marsèll and Officine Creative dye their hides to survive and thrive on the road.

Complementary Colors

The best guide to styling caramel across lighter tones is to keep the textures of other pieces fairly simple. Flat or uniformly nubby knits will extend the inherent sophistication of this palette. When choosing deeper autumnal accents, such as rust, gold or navy, simply match your textures across the chosen hues to harmonize your look.

Alonpi inspires in delicately woven cashmere – their nutty brown stoles and capes make an elegant final layer. The soft leather fringe is reminiscent of classical western wear, updated for the refined, contemporary wardrobe.

In jewels, find a sparkling selection of garnet, chalcedony and citrine from Greig Porter. In his 18K necklace, Greig strings differing sizes and tones of the finely cut briolette gems to create a warm melange of color.

Beloved Bags

If there was a time for bags to take center stage, it would be fall. In our latest arrivals, explore a range of new styles. While some are quite soft and bohemian, others are structured and bold – making them inviting to carry no matter what defines your personal style. In our opinion, the best handbags are less of an accessory and more of something that is delightful to your hand – to touch, to squish into your lap on the plane or to sling over your most luscious sweater.

Overall, the richness of this palette invites fantasy to the mind… What pleasures do the next few months have in store for us? What will we do next? What will we wear? All these questions (and more!) are a delight to consider as we transition into autumn.

Aboubakar Fofana’s Magnanimous Blue

To Aboubakar Fofana, to create indigo is to be in communion with nature.

It is one of the oldest dyeing techniques, dating back 5,000 years to the era of Ancient Egypt. Described as an “inexact science” – the range of blues one might receive from an indigo vat is based in technique, but influenced by alchemical chance – this form of art has developed over millennia.

A Malian-born Frenchman, Aboubakar Fofana’s deep love of indigo developed in his youth. On holiday visiting his grandmother’s village, he was taught the art of local medicinal plants, particularly the plant species Philenoptera Cyanescens. This plant, which grows green, can be refined in a way that expresses the deep blue of indigo.

Today Aboubakar Fofana creates his works on a sustainable farm – a project he has honed over the course of a decade. Vertically integrated, the farm is a key component to his sustainable vision, wherein Aboubakar Fofana and his apprentices use indigenous fibers, mud pigments and homegrown indigo to create this body of textiles.

The indigo vats on the farm bubble with thousands of bacterium – a living colony that influences the depth and tonality of the blue. As the plant enzymes are digested, the bacteria ferment and oxygenate to alter the color of the plant leaves from green to blue. The colony is carefully nourished and rested to preserve their vitality. Years of apprenticeship are needed to understand the specifics of this process.

While the hypnotic blue can be achieved more quickly synthetically, the effect is artificial and dangerous. Synthetic colorants not only injure the ecosystem, dyeing precious waterways a toxic azure, but lack the historical and cultural weight of true indigo. To commit to this slow variety of blue is to commit to the sustainable science of plant dyeing and the communities that thrive around it.

Prounis’ Golden Tapestry

Each of us carries a history deeply individual to our own lived experience.

The places we travel, the people we meet, the objects we curate … all of that forms an indelible imprint upon our identity. Most often, the way we choose to dress and the jewelry we decide to wear is indicative of this fact – a subliminal message of who we truly are. Jean Prounis, a high-sophistication jeweler, is invaluable in this effort, crafting pieces that meld and elevate the tapestry of the self.

Prounis’s jewelry is informed by history – from her family’s interest in antiquities to her grandfather’s storied Waldorf Astoria nightclub, her eye and taste level have been shaped by a lifetime immersed in great art of the ages. Within her works, she is able to capture moments from across time and culture. The rich gold of Hellenistic Greece, granulation from ancient Sumeria and Tahitian pearls with a touch of Art Deco are all found within her stylistic melting pot.

To adorn ourselves with items of significance – such as a pair of earrings that reminds us of a favorite trip abroad, a pendant gifted during an unforgettable soiree or the ring we purchase ourselves as a symbol of strength – is to present our own intimate moments to the world. In creating our own golden tapestry, we discover the joy inherent to dressing for the self.

Mirth & Memory – Péro

In detailing the influences of Péro’s latest collection, designer Aneeth Arora points to the storied practice of Oshibana.

This time-honored method to preserve nature dates back to 16th century Japan, where artists would flatten and dry flowers and leaves to use as an expressive medium. It spread quickly through the eastern and western worlds, today most often found in the pressing of flora between the pages of a book. Aneeth describes the act as a “keeper of memory” – a term akin to the way Péro presents their own work.

Aneeth’s design intuition feels deeply nostalgic. Sentiment echoes within the garments, notable in the precious, hand-stamped buttons, big lapels and lacy embroidery across a haberdashery of vintage plaids and stripes. Teal and turquoise dominate the palette, with pops of cherry red for contrast.

In classic Péro fashion, Aneeth and her team play in the groovy waters of the 70s without being sucked into kitsch. The smart cuts and exquisite craftsmanship keep these jackets, shirts and dresses feeling playful and contemporary.

In many ways, Aneeth is practicing her own form of Oshibana, both in her gauzy floral motifs and her stylistic nods to the past. Dressing is by no means isolated. The way we choose to present ourselves is both a challenge and a pleasure – informed by a history far beyond any single garment. And in the world of Péro, that challenge is faced with a big smile and a cheeky wink.

“Memory is the mother of all wisdom.” 

— Aeschylus

Sacai Brings the Inside Out

Chistose Abe has never veered from her rebellious spirit.

Oversized zippers, frayed denim, gaps at the shoulder and knees have become signature design elements for Chitose Abe’s label Sacai. This season her personal rebellion found inspiration in the 70s and 80s Japanese punk movement.

Zuisho-Ji Temple by Kengo Kuma

She took this kernel of history one step further with an exploration of “inside out”. In Sacai’s pre-fall collection, Chitose Abe blurs the lines between the inside and outside of garments, allowing for details from the inside to reveal themselves on the outside, exploring the sculptured presence of layered cloth in jackets and shirting.

No Sacai garment is ordinary, or just as it first appears. Waists can be drawn in or flung open, hems pulled upwards or down, and jackets worn tight against the body or in a layered craze with all the structural elements bared.

Sayama Forest Chapel by Hiroshi Nakamura & NAP

An inherent elegance whispers from between Sacai’s structured layers of utility and experimental precedent. Though toeing the line on androgyny – her clothing is truly flattering on many types of bodies – Chitose Abe’s designs hold an undeniably feminine bent with more tailored silhouettes this season. In exploring and reinterpreting what it means to be both progressive and a futurist, Sacai’s collections land squarely in the camp of other high-design greats, such as Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe, as well as her architectural peers, Suo Fujimoto and Kengo Kuma.

V&A Dundee Museum by Kengo Kuma

Miranda Hicks’ Wild Soul

Eschewing a solely monochrome approach, Miranda Hicks has introduced pops of color into her collection without sacrificing her signature edge.

Druzy pink quartz, soft prehnite, tangy tourmaline and tawny Mexican opal peek out from Miranda Hicks’ angular sterling silver bezels.

In creating her body of work, Miranda Hicks seeks out stones with a wild soul. Organic and unexpected, her jewels hold fast to their geologic origins. Rather than facet or buff the rough edges of a gem to make it easier to work with, Miranda Hicks manipulates the metal to best suit each stone’s natural character. There is a power inherent to this kind of jewelry-making – distilling the essence of the earth into something not just wearable, but directly connected to the landscape at large.

Miranda Hicks’ jewelry is distinctive, informed by centuries of aesthetic influence in and around the Southwest. In particular, the history of indigenous silversmithing in this region is central to her designs. By twisting and burnishing the precious metal, and then combining it with her unexpected, hand-picked stones, Miranda Hicks breathes a fresh, contemporary life into adornment for an everyday look.


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An Italian Holiday with Daniela Gregis

As Europeans depart for the beaches of Cinque Terre and Sardinia – August is a notoriously high travel time for the southern part of the continent – we are reaching for the most colorful parts of our closets. Daniela Gregis’ celebration of high summer with sunshine yellow, cloud white and poppy red beckons us on a holiday of our own. While still relevant to the upbeat tempo of city living, Daniela Gregis’ clothing reminds us of long, sunsoaked afternoons eating fresh tomatoes off the vine.

Daniela Gregis is drawn to this palette like a bee to pollen, exploring and transforming its vibrancy with every new collection. Red in particular is a powerful component of her clothing. To understand its significance to the Italians is to immerse oneself in thousands of years of Greco-Roman history. It’s the color of passion and verve – of sanguevino and a favorite lipstick.

Chromatic hues such as Titian and Pompeiian Red both originated from Italy’s famed artistic eras. Red stretches across the country, from the sunset cast on the Dolomites to the cheery, striped umbrellas found along the Amalfi coast. Perhaps that is why Daniela Gregis is so drawn to the color – even tucked away in the verdant hills of Bergamo, red’s magnetism is inescapable.

Splashed across a pair of lightweight linen pants, or peeking from the pockets of a breezy cotton top, Daniela Gregis presents the freedom inherent to such a storied color. She showcases red both in its most simple form, rendered in lovely cotton and silk, but in a decorative interpretation in her use of organic Liberty fabrics. To be cheeky: in Daniela Gregis’ playful hues, we’re given the permission to be.

“The plants have enough spirit to transform our limited vision.”

— Rosemary Gladstar

The Textile Traditions of Mashhad & Tabrizi

There is little in the world that quite captures the imagination quite like a Persian rug.

Referring specifically to carpets made in Iran, Persian rugs are incredibly intricate – often showcasing meditative pictorial elements that are difficult to weave. Steeped in artistry and fine craftsmanship, the traditions and techniques are part of some 5,000 years of history, evolving and adapting through the disparate regimes, dynasties and empires of Iran. We are pleased to present a selection of antique textiles from this region of the world – reimagined into inspired soft goods for the home.

To explore the inherent interest of Persian rugs is to explore the cities of Tabriz and Mashhad. Located in northwest Iran, Tabriz is particularly known for its textile presence and fine rug making. Mashhad, on the other side of the Caspian Sea, is renowned for the rich colors and technical mastery present in their weavings. At the crossroads of east and west, these locales boast an incredible cultural exchange – motifs from Europe, China, Russia and beyond permeate the rugs made in this region. Of technical note is the pile density found in these pieces. Persian rugs are graded by “raj”, the number of knots per 7cm of weaving structure. Ranging from 24 raj to 120 raj, the increased number of knots required for pattern and pile is an indicator of skill and the overall softness of the finished work.

These pillows are comprised of exquisite carpet remnants – high-character pieces of original rugs that have been meticulously preserved. In upcycling these materials into pillows, craftsmen ensure the continued longevity of these unique, time-intensive weavings. Elements of the original rugs peek through the soft good compositions, in florals, persimmons and geometric motifs. Through each, we are treated to a small taste of textile history, and a continued delight for the eye.

Introducing Miyo Oyabu…

Despite its inherently innovative presence, glass is a natural phenomenon. 

Not quite liquid or solid, scientists refer to it as its own state of matter. Its fragile structure is found across many different materials and geographies, such as the skeletons of sea sponges, volcanic lava and fulgurites on a beach after a storm. Taking these cues from the natural world, and infusing her own sense of artistry, Japanese glassblower Miyo Oyabu crafts her unique and sculptural glassware collection.

Like the bodies of water that inspire her work, Miyo’s glassware is liquid in the hand. As if she has captured the surface of a crystalline pond, each glass glimmers and shifts, changing character and presence based on its surroundings.

Light from a lamp above her glasses sends sparkles dancing across the table. Shadows too are brought to life, infusing the table with a magical and mysterious atmosphere.

After graduating with a degree in fashion, Miyo was called to the arts – joining her intuitive taste with a love of sculpting. She trained in glassblowing on Japan’s Noto Island – a prefecture renowned for its specialized glassmaking community. Establishing her studio in 2003, she has since showcased her work in multiple solo exhibitions both in Japan and abroad.

Drama in Dressing

Drawing from the inspiration of the natural world, Biyan Wanaatmadja infuses his work with a love of the flora and fauna from his beloved Indonesia.

A melding of western aesthetics and carefully crafted eastern textiles, Biyan’s works combine style and craft in unexpected ways. Of particular interest are his often maximal jackets and coats. Exuberantly embellished, embroidered, and beaded, each seems to be a celebration of the art of dressing.

His most subtle piece is the Kalepia jacket, wherein Biyan lets black and white embroidery flourish across taupe silk.

Symmetry and asymmetry are in tension here – Biyan references Javanese ceremonial dress in the reflectional pattern, but tweaks it with subtle irregularities, breathing life into the composition.

His Rendara style, a beaded and sequined emerald coat, is a panache of creativity. Glitter, gold and green meld together into a piece equal parts charisma and poise. The variety of embroidery across this piece plays with the viewer’s depth of field – a nod to Biyan’s penchant for costumery.

Like an opera set upon a stage, some of the elements seem closer, while others seem farther away and out of focus. It is the sense of peeking into a private garden and watching an enticing natural tale unfold.

A reflection of the taupe piece, Biyan also presents his Kalepia jacket in midnight blue. The reflectional symmetry falls away here, giving way to a design rich in mystery.

As the wearer shifts their body, light catches upon the luster of the silk, revealing intricate hand-embroidery. Across the arms floats a motif of the Javan Hawk-Eagle, a symbol of pride for the Indonesian people.

Biyan crafts these pieces, and the remainder of his collection, in a kaleidoscope of silk. At home over a pair of black pants and a simple top – or pushed to their limits with an equally eye-catching under-piece – these jackets are intended to make the wearer feel as exquisite as they look.

Textures of Nature

Gilda Midani’s collections are for the adventurer at heart.

With each delivery, we are transported to spectacular places. In these locales, wildness and freedom reign and the clothes so perfectly reflect the place and time. Our discovery? The ancient, sheer-walled table-mountain massifs that comprise the Gran Sabana of Venezuela.

Equatorial sun floods across the moist, jungle-covered plateaus. Water cascades over Angel Falls – the world’s tallest uninterrupted waterfall – and mixes with the tannin-rich rivers of the Yuruaní, Aponwao, Kukenán, Suruku, Ikabarú, Karuay, Urimán and Antabare.

As the Northern Hemisphere shifts towards fall, Gilda’s collection of richly-colored, mineral-dyed pieces are in conversation with this locale. The new colors and styles remain unified by the underlying dyeing techniques, from the primitive beeswax batik to the ancient shibori of Japan.

Says Gilda about her work: “I’m fascinated by the textures of nature, and by the imprint that time leaves on surfaces, and by its effect on things and on people.”