Author Archive
Nature Imitates Nature
As an artist, my view is ‘nature imitates nature’ rather than ‘art imitates nature.’ All our materials are natural materials, part of nature herself.
Lika Behar, Interview with Southern Jewelry News
An Evolution of Tradition: Lika’s Family Story
Lika Behar’s work is the result of years of jeweler’s tradition, baked into the foundation of her family’s heritage. As a child she would wander the teeming throng of the Grand Bazaar in central Istanbul, enamored by the symphony of colors and smells. Her father, a jeweler and coin dealer, had a shop in the center and Lika came to know the market like the back of her hand.
Being raised in Turkey, Lika has always yearned to return to this history of creating. Even as she received practical degrees in Economics and Political Science at NYU, her mind wandered back to her goldsmith roots in Istanbul. After an award-winning career in children’s apparel, she finally found the opportunity to return to the world she was born into. Encouraged by friends and family, she took the plunge and used her innate eye for design to create modern and exciting jewelry steeped in the history of her home country.
Following this epiphany, Lika transitioned her apparel company into one that designs jewelry. Her staff is a familiar mix of friends and family who have followed her through the twists and turns of her career. Among this tight knit core, she employs several master goldsmiths whose parents originally worked for her own father.
From the beginning, she has been inspired by a vision of what she likes to wear herself; casually elegant jewelry with an artisan touch. Her work is inspired by many an ancient culture, particularly Ancient Greek, Roman and Estruscan aesthetics. Pure gold is frequently featured in her designs, alongside richly colored gemstones reminiscent of the Bazaar she wandered as a child. In every way Lika Behar has evolved the traditions carried by her heritage, adding her own personal twist to stride forward to the future.
Boro: Repurposing the Past
Boro, a centuries old Japanese handicraft, is the practice of layering, patching and mending textiles together. In their reuse, these garments are the epitome of utility and sustainability.
Cotton can be difficult to grow in Japan, particularly in the north where the tradition is focused. By repurposing existing material, the practice of Boro came about not as a style choice but a means for survival. The pieces were often created for men with particularly laborious jobs, such as fisherman and farmers. Indigo dye was often used in these works as well, as it is moth-repellent, relatively inexpensive to use and creates a stunning effect on the fabric.
As Japan’s economy grew and general living standards across the country improved, Boro was eschewed as a reminder of their former poverty. Little was done by cultural institutions to preserve the tradition. However, over time the practice evolved to exemplify the Japanese aesthetic of wabi-sabi, where the beauty of the fabric comes from the reflection of natural wear. Since these humble roots, Boro has evolved from a tradition of necessity to a moniker of respect for the earth. Exhibitions like Japan Society’s “Boro Textiles: Sustainable Aesthetics”, on view digitally through June 14th, aim to raise awareness of the now-honored practice.
Kaval features Boro frequently in their work, as a tribute to these historical roots. 200-year-old Japanese silks and cottons are repurposed to create delicately layered garments reminiscent of a history where passion and hard work were central values. This resonates deeply with Kaval’s primary tenet in creating their pieces: the end result is only as valuable as the effort put forth by the craftsman. Boro in fashion connects the wearer to the history of the garment and the people who had a hand in creating it, as well as deepening their relationship with the Earth which originally provided the fiber. Boro is tangentially related to the South Asian tradition of Kantha, practiced by designers like Mieko Mintz, where sari fabrics are repurposed by being stitched together to make new garments.
Further Reading: Kantha: A Catalyst for Physical, Emotional and Spiritual Change
Why Earthy Brown?
Even in the most urban of settings, our eyes crave the richness of soil. Anthropologically the color symbolizes fertility and growth; the promise of a future harvest. Entire civilizations have been built upon the presence of lush earth. It is no surprise that we are drawn to the depth of earthy brown in all areas of our lives. The versatility and dimension of the color makes it a particularly strong neutral for Spring.
In clothing, the richness of an earthy brown denotes value. Often this color is linked with fine leather goods, particularly leather shoes perfect for spring. However, it can be found in all types of clothing, from jackets and pants to handbags and scarves. More sumptuous than its taupe and sand alternatives, the layered nature of this color adds interest and dimension to a garment. It can shift from striking to subtle depending on how it is worn, and matches seamlessly with all manner of hues.
When paired with black, deep notes of mahogany come forward and add an unmatched esteem to the style. With white, the look becomes light and natural, reminiscent of aspen bark in May. Layered with other neutrals, earthy brown takes on the spirit of a freshly tilled garden; fresh and essential. In any combination, there are few wardrobes that do not benefit from the addition of this resonant color.
Further Reading: Emerald: A Color For All Seasons
Jewelry: History’s Oldest Token of Celebration
Jewelry has always been of symbol of affection. Since the beginning of time, it has been used to decorate and elevate the wearer. It has also been a token of great affection or memories in the form of something small and enduring. Often given as people take stock of a transition in life, an accomplishment, or as encouragement, it’s most important function is the personalization of emotion. That is why handmade one-of-a kind jewelry is sought after.
The hand of the designer reveals character that should match the spirit of the receiver. They speak to one another. The wearer finds an echo to their personality in their jewelry and it is worn as a piece of themselves. This, in turn, is why jewelry is passed between family and friends and is deemed invaluable….a keepsake and embodiment of a person.
Jewelry’s importance today is, interestingly enough, even more pertinent in a time in which celebrations have been reduced to more simple interactions at home. While showpieces may have less relevance, jewelry that stays on the body and is part and parcel of the person adds beauty to living. Memories are carried along through everyday life; they journey with the wearer through the garden, at the table, or on a walk. Some might delight in the mysticism of a piece’s protective qualities, others at the reminder of love during a difficult time. Ultimately, its significance is wrapped up in spoken and unspoken emotions that make life so precious. These times remind us of the power of jewelry.
Uma Wang and Maria Lai: Connecting Texture and Familiarity
Uma Wang, renowned for founding one of China’s first international labels, draws inspiration from a treasure trove of art and history. In particular, she has been outspoken on the influence of Maria Lai, a Sardinian artist known for her broad work connecting textiles and literature.
During her sixty year career, Maria Lai created artwork inspired by her upbringing in the small town of Ulassai and her relationship to the world. She created using mediums from painting to pencil to sculpture, but was most attracted to the familiar nature of textiles, which became the focus of her later career. While she participated in group shows around the world, it was only after her death in 2013 that she commanded international attention. A retrospective of her work, Holding the Sun by the Hand, toured the globe in 2019, showcasing a wealth of her textile work.
“She is good at establishing rhythm and relationships with a galaxy of materials, connecting fabric and thread with other textures. I believe many people will be attracted to the sense of security in her works.”
Uma Wang, April 27th 2020, Interview with Jing Daily
Lai’s most well known for her focus on literature as vital nourishment for the human experience. Her later pieces often mimic the look of open books, inviting a familiarity and curiosity in the audience. There are no defining features other than the lines of text, with words completely illegible and unreadable, adding a layer of intrigue that is difficult to pin down. Often these non-words will spill off the page, as if you could pull a thread and watch the whole book come undone. The threads unspool and knot together, creating an even larger and more mysterious context. There is a sense of comfort in Lai’s work, the familiarity of words and textile, combined with an unease in the bedlam of the knots and the sacrality of finding a forbidden text, foreign and indecipherable.
We see these themes crop up in Uma Wang’s designs as well; familiarity, and agelessness blended with a mystery you cannot quite put your finger on. Uma has a command of texture and fabric as well, creating garments that ignite the senses in every way. With designs influenced by eons of human aesthetic, both artists clearly have a deep respect for the world around them, and let their designs take shape in an ever-shifting environment. In art or clothing, Uma Wang and Maria Lai remind us of the solace in connecting to a history of deeply human experience.
How Leather Bags are Woven
Leather bags, like the ones offered by Massimo Palomba, are a delight to have and to hold. The supple texture, beautiful color and superior craftsmanship create an accessory that will stand the test of time, stylistically and literally.
In warmer weather, we look forward to the basket weave of summer handbags. While admiring the delicate interlacing of leather strands, one cannot help but think about the detail and hard work that goes into creating such a beautiful thing. While woven leather bags are indeed a labor of love, their multi-functionality and almost meditative pattern make them a delight to create.
Artisans will start by designing what they would like the bag to look like and how it will be woven. Leather weaving is a time consuming process and planning ahead to avoid any weakness in the bag is key. They then choose the leather to make the bag. They look for strength in fiber and richness in color. Leather is dyed before this process begins using a variety of natural dyes and colorants to produce the rich color designers like Campomaggi and Massimo Palomba are known for.
The leather is then bisected into many even strands, three to four times longer than the bag itself will be. The artisan sets about interlacing the strands together at what will be the top of the bag, adding strands of leather as they make their way around the opening to create the border. Often, this weaving is done around a wooden mold for the bag as a guide and structure for the weaving. This mold informs the size, shape and style of the bag. As they move through their pattern, layering strands of leather together to create the texture, they pull tightly on the strands to ensure strength and fastness.
After the body of the bag has been woven, the artisan will attach the leather handles and stamp in their signature. Designers like Massimo Palomba will add custom casted hardware like rivets or rings. Creating bags like this can take the artisan up to 35 hours to complete, but the end result is an accessory timeless and unique.
Emerald: A Color for All Seasons
Every season brings us a new and fresh palette to integrate into our lives. From the deep cobalts of Toogood to the bright saffrons of Wehve, we find a new hue to love in every way the weather changes. However, there is always one color that finds its way back into our thoughts time and again, adapting to all moods and seasons: Emerald.
Emerald green, true to the gemstone it’s named for, is a hue rich in history and sophistication. Coming first from desert mines in Ancient Egypt, the deep viridian color captured the minds of royalty the world over, making its way into everything from literature to jewelry to clothing. Unsurprisingly, the soothing natural color came to signify luck, trust, and harmony with nature. Even inclusions within the gem, for which any other stone would be derided, are affectionately referred to as jardin, or “garden” in French. This association with the natural elements has long endeared emerald to the world as a simultaneously grounded and elevated color with an unmatched versatility.
The deep blue green of this jeweltone works well with any shade of skin or hair, and meshes easily into a variety of palettes. As a color gentle on the eyes, it is even said that the Roman Emperor Nero would gaze through a large, flat emerald gem when watching gladiator fights for its soothing properties. Today emerald is a tone rich and classic. Avant Toi has famously dubbed their version of this green Smeraldo, the Italian word for emerald. In any language, emerald adds a layer of elegance and intelligence to a wardrobe. An emerald top paired with sleek black pants and an understated bootie can bring a sense of poise to your everyday wear. An emerald necklace can ground an otherwise simple black dress into a deeply sophisticated look. In any way you choose to wear it, may this color bring you the luck, trust and harmony it has gifted the world with for centuries.
Astier de Villatte: Atelier de Balthus
As if awakening from a dream, Astier de Villatte’s scents evoke the haziest of memories through their complex perfuming and design. Astier’s candles are the result of a fruitful collaboration between renowned designers and the best of the perfuming world. Using the finest ingredients, Astier de Villatte has created a series of candles and incense that elicit a specific yearning in their aroma and transport the mind to another place in time.
Atelier de Balthus
Sunshine spills through the open window of the painter’s studio. Wafts of turpentine and smoke hang heavy among the honeyed aroma of tobacco and cedar. Thick blotches of paint sit patiently on an open palette. Weaving through the warm afternoon haze, a whisper of Indonesian patchouli invites creativity and inspiration.
More from Astier de Villatte
Mieko Mintz: Large Patterns & Sophisticated Prints
Mieko Mintz synthesizes rich textile traditions with modern aesthetics. Her line of one-of-a-kind Kantha jackets has since become her signature, fusing traditional Indian handcraft with sophisticated and contemporary Japanese designs. This delivery showcases subtle larger patterns interwoven with sophisticated smaller prints. Colors are equally unusual and dynamic, proving that Mieko and her cooperative of artisans have a rich and informed aesthetic in their creation of one-of-a-kind pieces.
The Heart of Injiri
As summer approaches, living takes on a new feeling of the airy outdoors and white and cream interiors become places of relaxation. This is the heart of Injiri. Cottons are woven in the traditional Gujarati weaving technique called bhujodi in which complex patterns give each piece a unique personality. Soft geometric patterns, mismatched buttons, and red stitch details are cherished elements of the creation of each piece. “For me the beauty lies in the process of making,” Chinar Farooqui explains. The result is a collection of bed covers, throws, floor and decorative pillows that can move through the house and garden and add a lightness of being to summer living.
Ümit Ünal: Bridging Style, Culture and Function
Istanbul, home to clothing designer Ümit Ünal, is many things including the city of bridges. The city is split into 3 zones connected by Galata and Atatürk bridges, as well as three of the world’s longest suspension bridges: Bosporus I, Bosporus II, and Bosporus III — all spanning over 3,000 feet. Istanbul is also the geographic bridge between Asia, the Middle East and Europe. Culturally, it is the world’s fifth most popular tourist destination, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a world-recognized center for entertainment.
It’s no surprise that in this cultural hotspot, Ümit Ünal finds a wealth of inspiration for a collection that reflects a duality in design. A silk shirt can be sophisticated enough to wear formally under the right jacket, yet the hidden frayed edges come to light when worn over jeans. The same shirt can reference both Anatolian folk art and the edginess of European design. With an emphasis on techniques done by hand, such as embroidery, hand stitching and overdyeing, there is an additional layer of rich sophistication added to his fluid and often monochromatic collections. Ümit—like his city—bridges cultures, styles, and function.
