The Good Shepherd knitwear company is the realization of Emily Watt’s research at the Royal College of Art in London. As a graduate student, she examined the future of textiles, a project which set her on a journey into the UK’s long history and future possibilities with wool. Established in 2013, The Good Shepherd creates intricately hand knit functional artisan pieces imbued with a strong sense of British identity, rooted to culture, process and place.

Originally learning to knit from her grandmother, Emily honed her fiber arts skills through her MA in Knitted Textiles from the RCA. She began her studies in fashion knitwear but changed her specialization to homegoods because she was drawn to the attention focused on the textile itself. Emily describes herself as fascinated by construction in all forms but particularly textile products and the appeal of making something from nothing. Knitting became her focus due to the skill’s portability and infinite possibilities.

Research trips to the Shetland Islands in the north of Scotland formed the foundation and vision for Emily’s knitwear company. The Good Shepherd draws inspiration from the exposed, windswept landscape of the Shetland Islands, as well as being named after the small ferry boat that takes you to the island of Fair Isle from mainland Shetland. The Shetland Islands are a knitters mecca, renowned for centuries for the quality of their wool and their intricate knitting patterns and designs. Rugged conditions, inclement weather and minimal diets due to the landscape cause Shetland sheep to grow a softer and lighter weight fiber. Since the sheep are not bred for uniform fleeces, there is a greater variety in the quantity and depth of colors found in the virgin wool.

Emily’s interest in traditional knitwear and its continued influence on contemporary design made it essential to visit the Shetland islands and experience firsthand the farm to fabric philosophy of the wool being grown, spun and used in one place. This is a practice prevalent all over the islands and making a comeback across the UK as local, natural, sustainable resources are prioritized. The Good Shepherd pieces are made entirely from British wool, combining Shetland tradition with a modern aesthetic, beautifully textured and full of culture.

The name of the brand also resonates with the main principle of Emily’s studio which is respect for the materials worked with – intentionally choosing to use a local, natural material and highlight its beauty – to try to be a Good Shepherd. Through her sustainable products, Emily offers a deep and direct connection to nature and honors the process and cycle of life instead of trying to alter it for commercial production. She aims to express observations and respond to what’s around her life through textiles, often in simple graphics and differing textures, while using a readily available renewable resource.

Shetland sheep produce a variety of natural colors, ranging from blue grey to honey brown to true black and white. Emily uses mostly pure Shetland wool with small amounts of luxurious Blue Faced Leicester and Dorset wool and also small batches of yarn spun in Yorkshire. Emily embraces the challenge of the ever changing nature of her source material and the restricted palette. She enjoys exploring the infinite range of subtleties within the shades, using the natural shades to create a monochromatic look with depth. The pillows work as objects but also the wool is soft enough to function as an element of comfort in the home.

Emily’s work is often described as having a strong sense of British identity, yet the aesthetic relevance of her work resonates across styles. The natural color of the wool and geometric motifs are found in art across cultures and regions, including the American Southwest, Peru, Bolivia, Thailand and Southern China. The Good Shepherd pieces are considered collectible in Europe, both because of the quality of craftsmanship and the aesthetic elements of her work.

This resort season, Etro takes us on a journey through the luminous colors and textures of Morocco. Etro’s iconic paisley motif is incorporated into designs emulating intricate Moroccan mosaics and tilework. Colors with a dusty vibrance bring the detailed patterns to life on tees and shirting. Brilliant blue paisley mirrors elegant painted tiles, sand and shell pink intertwine in delicate balance and chartreuse pops through several pieces in the collection.

Dark florals are a strong statement in modern fashion, demonstrating a wide-ranging influence similar to the emergence of the Breton stripe nearly a hundred years ago. Wearing floral garments is synonymous with effortless style, from elegant to avant-garde. Although florals are traditionally associated with femininity, they are notably versatile. The inherent duality of dark florals make them relevant to moodier, fall colored wardrobes as well as finding a place in the spring closet due to the nature of the flowers themselves. Below we have highlighted some of our favorite floral pieces and their unique qualities.

A Sensory Relationship

What does it mean to be lying in a bed of flowers? Florals are experiential, a connection with the ground, creating a sensory relationship with form and color. References to femininity and nature are imbued in Uma Wang’s collections, with a twist. Flowers have an innate sense of femininity that may not suit everyone; Uma Wang demonstrates the unique ability to take an illustration of entangled petals and vines and bring it back to its roots. Whether in subdued tones or vibrant reds, her floral illustrations are anything but ordinary, draping the wearer in patterns imbued with an earthy groundedness.

Vintage Charisma

Dark florals illuminate regal appliqués embroidered with golden fibers in the designs of By Walid. Textiles made for a queen meet textures for an individualist while masterful grace is woven into the luxury of each flower. The patterns on By Walid’s piano shawls have a Victorian air and feminine sensibility thanks to the intricacies in each hand stitched flower.

Depth and Deconstruction

Subtleties are created through patterning and texture, which can change the entire meaning of a piece. A Tentative Atelier showcases depth through floral jacquards that are romantic with a gothic-renaissance undertone still relevant today. For designer Sacai, utilitarian details deconstruct the effect of feminine, bringing an androgynous edge to flowers softened with pleats and lace. 

Hypnotizing Patterns

Animals and bursting greenery often portray the living fertility of plant life, as tropical leaves and exotic flowers cascade from each stem. Etro typically channels the hyper-visual of florals and pairs them with paisley to create sophistication. No stranger to color, their work embodies a maximalist perspective. They are also masters of color, portraying their hypnotizing patterns in ranges from pastel to vibrant to opaque. 

Familiar Fauna

Péro is well acquainted with floral imagery. With each season they portray the familiar fauna through a new lens, whether it be united in themes of the ocean or the source of their materials. From beaded florals, to embroidered petals and textured lace accents, the techniques they employ never disappoint.

About the Artwork

Featured above is the artwork of Rachel Ruysch and Jan Davidsz de Heem respectively. Rachel Ruysch specialized in flowers, invented her own style and achieved international fame in her lifetime. She became one of the most documented female painters of the Dutch Golden Age.

Many Dutch painters are renowned for their intriguing still lifes, filled with symbolic objects that create a commentary on the passage of time and inevitability of death, called vanitas. In some ways, their work also achieved the antithesis of this.

Painters like Jan Davidsz de Heem were celebrated for their ability to unite flowers from many seasons in a single painting, keeping them alive for centuries. The artist’s power to “out-do” nature itself is evident in the detail of each painting: from the stone pedestal riddled with cracks to the insects perched softly on each petal.