Ümit Ünal is a steadfast designer—not only has he headed his own self-named label for almost 30 years, he also grew up working in his family’s Istanbul atelier. His identity is so intertwined with tailoring and fashion that it may come as a surprise to learn his first love was archaeology. In the excavation of the past, the exploration of bygone civilizations and the unearthing of the long and lost, Ümit’s imagination raced with possibility. Then again, in looking closely at the antiquity of his collections, this core fascination may come as no surprise at all.
Like his Anatolian homeland, Ümit is a melting pot of ideas. Beyond prehistory, his influences are interdisciplinary: tenets of comedy, sculpture, poetry, music and art permeate his designs. While he doesn’t lean towards national or cultural references, and avoids the gilded maximalism of traditional Turkish dress, regional motifs still peek through. In particular, Ümit favors the hand-embroidery and stitchwork endemic to Anatolian tailoring—with his own twist, of course.
In running stitches along hems and faux darning on lapels, Ümit chronicles his distinct aesthetic in thread. One of the most coveted elements of his pieces is this presence of the hand—topstitching, embroidery and basting akin to an artist’s signature. Far from the decadent embellishment of his peers, Ümit’s needle adds raw authenticity to his work, as if the piece holds history before its first wear.
The Ümit Ünal studio exhibits a care for classical, understated design unmatched in the modern lexicon. His palette, while tonal, is his most carefully considered element. To him, color can be a distraction. Instead, he presents his designs in their most “naked” form. This neutral palette, presented this season in teal, rust brown and heather grey, allows his artisanal details to shine all their own.
