Seeking Structure: Sacai FW24

For almost 25 years, Chitose Abe has perfected the art of hybridization. Just as she is a multi-hyphenate as a designer, mother, businesswoman, and most recently, magazine curator, so too are her pieces two things at once. Shirting melds into dresses, peacoats into bomber jackets, traditional suiting into a cascade of feminine pleats. The results are dynamic and unexpected–elegant puzzles of garmentry that stay in the mind well after their first impressions. Of the latest Sacai Fall/Winter collection, Chitose said her instinct is to convince people to dress up more. With such a bold invitation, how could we say no?

Even after close to 50 collections, we can’t help but be wowed by Chitose’s construction. To pleat and fold and stitch together so many faceted layers in one garment, and still have it float with such grace over the body, is mastery. These pieces may have roots in the highest of avant garde silhouettes but they are less complicated to wear than they look, offering high-flying design with minimal styling effort.

“No matter how new and revolutionary of a design you make, if it’s not something that’s wearable, then I don’t think it has very much meaning. I myself am a designer, but also a business owner, and a mother. Like myself, people who live in different scenes have many unique faces and therefore the clothes I make, which are what I feel I want to wear, emphasize people to Sacai.”

— Chitose Abe

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