As inferred by the name of the Maku Textiles studio, fabric is the forefront of Santanu Das’ small, Kolkata-based label. From thread to garment, their designs are a quiet celebration of the human hand. The textiles are slowly loomed from soft, organic yarns and each piece cut and sewn by traditional artisans before being hand-dyed with locally grown indigo. Santanu will even deliberately incorporate “perceived imperfections,” such as reversed buttons and asymmetrical prints, bringing additional focus to the maker’s touch.
Rooted in both traditional craft, contemporary design and the storied history of Khadi weavings, this is a collection as alive as the indigo central to its creation. Though Maku comes to us at the onset of fall, these are lightweight pieces perfect for the season. Khadi in particular is a versatile, breathable fabric, typically woven from cotton or silk, that is cool in summer and warm in winter.
Cloud-shaped embroidery and delicately pintucked pleats decorate the dresses and tunics, while the shirting and coats are kept simple. The palette centers around the soft greens and blues achieved through multiple layers of indigo dye, lacquered one over the other like watercolor.
“As we engage with these textiles, we are connecting with centuries of history, heritage, and human spirit. ”
—Santanu Das