Soft to the touch and gentle against the skin, cashmere is one of the most prized textiles in the world. Because of its insulating properties, cashmere keeps the wearer warm in fall and winter and is a lightweight layering option for spring and summer nights. With seasonal care, a high-quality handmade cashmere sweater will last a lifetime.
Cashmere’s quality depends on the type of yarn used, its length and the thickness of its fibers. Knits made with longer, fine fibers tend to pill less and hold their shape better than those made with short fibers. The finer the cashmere fiber, the softer the garment will feel.
There are four factors to consider when determining whether a garment is made of high-quality cashmere: look, feel, stretch and pilling.
1. Feel
Hold the garment at eye level and look across the surface. A minimal amount of fluffiness, approximately 1mm – 2mm, is a sign of high-quality cashmere. If the fluffiness rises higher, it indicates shorter hairs have been used, which do not bind together as well as long hairs, and the item will pill and wear more quickly.
2. Touch
Rub the cashmere on a sensitive area: such as the inner wrists or under the chin. High-quality cashmere is soft but not overly so; it softens with wear. Avoid unnaturally soft cashmere which has typically been treated and will not wear as well over time.
3. Stretch
Gently pull the cashmere to see if it holds its shape and bounces back. Lower-quality cashmere will remain stretched out after use, while quality cashmere will stretch to fit the wearer and retain its shape. While gently stretching the fabric, look through it. The tighter the cashmere knit, the better it will preserve its shape.
4. Pilling
Pilling is a natural occurrence in cashmere usually caused by friction. A seat belt, purse strap or even the synthetic lining of a jacket can cause pilling. In lesser-quality cashmere, simply running a hand over a garment can cause slight pilling and show wear — signaling shorter fibers and lower quality. Work your hands over the surface of a knit to see what happens. Less pilling means the cashmere will wear well.
To address pilling on cashmere garments, we recommend using a Cashmere Comb.
Cashmere, a timeless and lofty fabric, relies on a bit of extra attention and care to maintain its longevity. In this effort, a cashmere comb is an indispensable tool. By effectively removing pilling, cashmere combs restore a garments’ original luster without the use of harsh chemicals, ensuring an environmentally friendly approach to fabric care.
Beyond cleaning, cashmere combs are ideal for rejuvenating sweaters that have been stored for long periods of time. To utilize the comb effectively, brush it gently over the garment’s surface, employing light strokes to restore its original shape and texture.
Before brushing the garment, spot test the comb on an inconspicuous area on the interior of the garment. If satisfied with the spot test, proceed with gently brushing the pilled areas of the garment’s face. Discard any remaining fuzz trapped in the comb’s screen. We recommend following the manufacturer’s instructions as combs vary from brand to brand.
For various fabric types, including cashmere, wool, and upholstery, a sweater stone can be invaluable. Sweater stones are made from porous pumice stone (volcanic rock) that catches and pulls loose fibers from knits. At Santa Fe Dry Goods, we recommend cashmere combs over sweater stones as the stones can shed on the garment and the users’ hands. Sweater stones are less precise, and therefore should not be used on very delicate or loose knits.
Is it Safe to use a Fabric Shaver on Cashmere?
Though cashmere is prone to pilling in the same way wool sweaters are, we recommend taking extra care with cashmere. A manual brush is a much safer way to tackle pilling. The palm-size wooden block of a cashmere comb, like this one, features wire netting on each side. To use, simply run it over your sweater in a downward motion while applying gentle pressure.
To prevent pilling, employ these tools before and after washing your cashmere garments. With the right care, your cashmere pieces will maintain their exquisite appearance and feel for years to come.
What was your path to becoming a jewelry designer?
I launched Prounis in 2017 as a vehicle to tell stories of my love for antiquities while bridging my Greek heritage with the age-old sustainable craft of handwrought jewelry. On visits as a child to see my late grandfather, Nick Prounis, he would take time to carefully educate me about my Greek heritage through books and lectures in his personal library. He’d let me collect a piece of jewelry or object from his “antiquities” collection, most of which were museum replicas. From these moments, I inherited a practice of marrying memory with treasured objects and sought to make my own pieces with the same intention, inspired by the antiquities featured in the pages of his books.
What do you enjoy most about working with 22K gold?
It is the most historical alloy of gold. We use the same make up of 22-karat gold as the Ancient Greeks did — it is a clean blend of fine gold, with trace amounts of fine silver and copper that give the metal its beautiful buttery color. I’m moved by working in this material with such a rich history and dedicated to carrying on the ancient traditions of high karat jewelry with our contemporary approach to design.
What attracts you to gems cut pre-1970?
There is a romance to the hand-cut quality of vintage and antique stones. For faceted stones, the facets are often larger with a “wabi-sabi” look to them that is hard to find in contemporary cuts.
What are the origins of the granules motif that occurs throughout your work?
When I first started making jewelry I took ancient goldsmithing classes where I learned a breadth of techniques including granulation, chain making, bezel setting, repousse, etc. After honing my bench skills, I began to play with the scale of intricate details commonly seen in ancient jewelry. Much of the fine granulation you see on ancient pieces at The Met were made using microscopic gold balls. I like to play with those delicate details in my designs by scaling up the fine details to create bolder and more wearable pieces as you can see in our Nona styles.
Where does the inspiration for the Bulla disc shape originate?
I was drawn to working with rounded shapes as they have a naturally calming energy. When I began to research historical jewelry references with rounded shapes, I came across ancient Etruscan and Roman Bulla pendants which are often described as a protective amulet given to children but also worn by adults. I was attracted to the protective qualities that were thought to be represented by these lenticular pieces. You can often see Bulla pendants depicted in ancient Etruscan relief paintings and sculptures.
Can you tell us about the Mycenae-Inspired Fibula Clasp on the Nona necklace?
I designed the Fibula clasp after Ancient Greek fibula brooches, one of my favorite historical baubles which were used like an embellished safety pin, worn near the shoulder to fasten garments. Fibulas were often made up of intricate geometric designs and precious materials that served a function as well as a personal identifier of sorts.
What draws you to the symbolism of the Laurel leaf?
The laurel leaf is a common symbol in Ancient Greek art and folklore. In an effort to translate the laurel’s eternal symbol of protection, purification and poetry, I abstracted the almond-shaped silhouette, curving and elongating the shape to mirror that natural variation from one leaf to another on a single laurel tree, garland or wreath. An empowering motif for everyday jewelry, the laurel and its symbolic reverence become a reminder of our individual strength and connection.
Can you describe the ancient mechanics of the Double Link Chain’s green tourmaline toggle clasp?
Our Double Link Chain features our signature toggle clasp with three green tourmalines set in line with trios of granulation to form a bar that is pulled through a ring component to secure the piece in place. It is a simple, age-old mechanism.
What was the inspiration behind the Sapphire Breccia ring?
This ring is inspired by “breccia” which is rock formation made up of fragments and minerals cemented together over time. Our multi-stone ring, of both smooth and rounded gold, presents the tumbled star sapphires in a natural setting to reflect the sedimentary formation.
Your gems seem to glow in their settings. How do you achieve this effect?
We place a small piece of high-polished platinum behind our translucent cabochons to maintain the natural colors of the stone and help reflect light for a vibrant shine.
Is there anything you would like our clients to know about you or your jewelry line?
Our pieces are part of history, precise yet distinctive handmade creations that collect the knicks and changes of life and time. I like to say that the pieces are not finished until you’ve been wearing them for some time and the beautiful patina of everyday life starts to texture the surface of the gold.
