For Dries Van Noten, inspiration lives just beyond the front door.
Nature has always been his driving motif, but to step out into his garden is to understand its impact on his eye in a new way. At his Belgian home, Dries designs among a world rich in whimsy and sophistication. Sprays of peonies and geraniums line stone pathways, leading to a glassy pond that reflects the natural world like a mirror. In fall, red and orange oak leaves quietly glide across its surface – influences we see clearly in his latest offerings for Fall/ Winter 2023.
The stand-out piece in this collection of stand-out pieces is Dries’ Remis Coat. This intricate, anorak-inspired shape is Dries’ full artistry on display. Metallic threads shimmer down the coat’s main weave, matched by daubs of glitter and gold hiding within velvet florals. Intended to be easy to wear while still eye-catching, the silhouette is simple and clever. A solid panel down the opening of the coat gives the illusion of a lapel without the extra bulk. The velvet florals are stitched across a sheer gauze, which is then layered across the pin-stripe panels of the jacket’s shoulders. This effect adds dimension to the overall work, shifting the viewers perspective as they experience the different angles of the piece.
Quilting, applique and stitchwork dominate this delivery, drawing the eye – and hand – closer to the small, tactile elements of each garment. This latest delivery is Dries at his best, contrasting disparate moments of pageantry and intimacy across the collection – much like the gardens of its origin. Rich in autumnal tones of ocher and rust, it feels as if he has tip-toed out to the edge of his pond and gilded the falling leaves as they float by.
