Author Archive

IFAM Speaker Series: Not To Be Missed

Don’t miss these premiere designers at this year’s edition of the International Folk Art Market (IFAM).

Program curated and moderated by Philip Fimmano. For more details visit folkartmarket.org/tickets.

2024 IFAM Speaker Series

In celebration of the 20th edition of the International Folk Art Market (IFAM), the annual speakers series takes its cue from the broad Indigenous worldview that time is cyclical and circular. In this context, a non-linear approach will be used to simultaneously discuss the past, present and future of folk art.

One of the world’s leading indigo dyers, Aboubakar Fofana is currently working to reinvigorate indigenous West African indigo farming in Mali.

Friday, July 12 at 10am: Aboubakar Fofana

Born in Mali and raised in France, Aboubakar Fofana is a multidisciplinary artist and designer whose working mediums include calligraphy, textiles, and natural dyes. He is known for his efforts to reinvigorate, redefine and preserve West African textile and indigo dyeing techniques.

Aboubakar began his artistic journey with calligraphy, which lead him to wonder about traditions similar to this in Africa and to learn about natural textile dyeing. His work stems from a profound spiritual belief that nature is divine and that through respecting this divinity we can understand the immense and sacred universe. Aboubakar uses raw materials from the natural world, and his working practice revolves around the cycles of nature, the themes of birth, decay and change, and the impermanence of these materials.

Aboubakar is currently deeply involved in creating a farm in conjunction with the local community in the district of Siby, Mali, in which the two types of indigenous West African indigo will be the centerpiece for a permaculture model based around local food, medicine and dye plants. This project hopes to contribute to the rebirth of fermented indigo dyeing in Mali and beyond and represents Aboubakar’s greatest project to date.

Natalie Chanin’s slow fashion has not only inspired thousands to take up the craft, but also revitalized the textile industry in rural Alabama.

Saturday, July 13 at 2pm: Natalie Chanin

Founded by Natalie Chanin, Alabama Chanin maintains its headquarters in a former textile factory. Located in Florence, Alabama, the brand collaborates with independently contracted seamstresses and tailors, which has helped to revive the textile industry in the area. 

Ultimately, the venture was inspired by Natalie’s Grandmothers. Growing up she realized that anything could be handmade, and the few store-bought items in her grandparents’ closets were made to last. For this reason, Alabama Chanin has been committed to sustainable design. They work hard to preserve handcrafted traditions while producing locally and ethically, with the highest possible quality standards.

Beauty of the Senses: In Conversation with Kaval

Five questions for Kaval’s lead designer.

From a person who is notoriously private — Kaval’s designer aims not to take interest away from their collectible pieces — we learned more about Kaval’s process and world view. Every piece of Kaval is made in their small factory located in Tochigi, Japan, where they weave and dye their own fabric. Over time, Kaval has mastered the use of ancestral Japanese indigo (Persicaria Tinctoria) to dye and create pieces with a true artisanal artistry. Each piece is sewn by hand and finished using antique sewing machines that lend a particularly romantic, yet intellectual, aesthetic to the garments.

What, or who, is your greatest source of inspiration?

Everyday life, sounds, scents, nature, longing, people, animals.

Technology, skills, folk art, crafts, history, art, and many other categories spring up spontaneously.

What is your process for weaving and dyeing your fabric?

Universe, Infinite, Imagination.

What attracts you to ceramic buttons?

They are made entirely by hand in our atelier. Pottery buttons are not always neatly shaped, and the shape can be subtly distorted. If the glaze is not applied evenly, there can be variations in the finished product. I think this is what makes them unique and attractive, just like people.

What do antique sewing machines offer your creative process that modern machines cannot?

There are many sewing machines that cannot be manufactured today.
There is more to a machine than just human skill.
Even a single buttonhole is different.
It helps me to imagine details, etc.

How do you recommend our clients best care for your pieces?

Varies depending on the material, but hand-washing and sun-drying is recommended.

See All This: Summer 2024

A Global Shopper’s Address Book: Curated by Philip Fimmano

Santa Fe Dry Goods — New Mexico

Bringing together the world’s most intriguing fashion and interior brands in the heart of Santa Fe, this risk-taking store has the best buy in garments, accessories and home goods, combining high quality with remarkable taste for a discerning clientele.

(Kipos Claudia Blouse by Rianna + Nina)

All About Beryls

The beryl family includes some of the world’s most beloved gemstones. Here, we explore the rich history of beryls and their captivating brilliance.

Both aquamarines and emeralds belong to the beryl family, however, it does not stop there. Below you will find the types of beryls and a bit about each.

Beloved Beryls: Golden Emeralds from Lika Behar

Beryl consists of the elements beryllium, aluminum, silicon, and oxygen. Normally colorless, beryls take on colors from a variety of trace elements such as chromium and iron. Beryls can range from colorless to black, and crystals can range in size from single carats to extremely large and flawless examples found in museums.

Emerald

Emeralds are perhaps the most widely known variety of beryl. Their rich green color, caused by traces of chromium and vanadium, has made them desirable for centuries. Colombian emeralds are amongst the most sought after.

Aquamarine

Literally translating to ‘sea water’, aquamarine is colored by iron and occurs naturally as a pale, bluish-green color. In the 19th century, blue-green aquamarines were preferred but now, stones are usually heat treated to remove the green hue, thus producing a purer blue color. The more intense the blue color, the higher the value.

Heliodor and Golden Beryl

Both heliodor and golden beryl are yellow in color, but the former often has a hint of green while the latter is a saturated yellow to orangey-yellow. Both are colored by iron. 

Morganite

Named after the 19th century banker and gemstone enthusiast J.P. Morgan, morganite is the pink to orangey-pink member of the beryl family colored by manganese. 

Goshenite

Goshenite is colorless, a beryl in its purest form. It was named after Goshen, Massachusetts where it was first discovered. 

Red Beryl 

So rare that it is more of a collector’s stone than one used in jewelry, red beryl is also known as bixbite. The only place this raspberry to deep rose red stone is found in gem quality is the Wah Wah Mountains of Utah.

Pezzottaite

Discovered in 2003 and named after gemologist Federico Pezzotta, pezzottaite is a rare pinkish-red to pink gemstone. It does not often appear in jewelry – several of the mines where it has been unearthed are now exhausted.

Explore our selection of beryls online and in store at Santa Fe Dry Goods.

Hole & Corner: Backyard Bill in Santa Fe

Shopping with soul: six collectors explain why they keep returning to IFAM Santa Fe and why making a stand against homogenization is so important…

Shobhan Porter, store owner

What do you do?
I own and buy for three retail stores in Santa Fe, New Mexico: Workshop, Santa Fe Dry Goods and Wild Life.

Tell us about your favourite pieces…
The large indigo bedspread was made by master dyer Aboubakar Fofana, from Mali. I think it is outstanding because he achieved a three-dimensionality to what is a two-dimensional object. But what captures my heart and eyes is the intensity of the mid-tone blue. It has its own voice. The three blue embroideries were hand-stitched by two really amazing craftswomen from Laos. The work is highly detailed, the colours have incredible depth, but what I like most is that the design is so universal that I can combine those pieces with items from any other part of the world and they work together. These three pieces speak a universal language. The last two pieces are vintage African mud cloth that have been in my family for the past 30 years.

What is it that makes Santa Fe unique?
Santa Fe is particularly special because it is still an artist colony that prides itself on individuality, freedom and creativity. This doesn’t leave much room for the homogenization that exists in many other places. The market is unique because it celebrates art that retains an earthiness – even if it is perfectly constructed. The artists still focus on historical, deeply-rooted aesthetics and methods. There is a lot of soul; we forgo gloss for authenticity.

How long have you been visiting and what were your first impressions? 
I’ve been attending the Folk Art Market since I moved back to Santa Fe in 2008. It is a cheerful event
that reminds the consumer that art, textiles, clothing and décor are made by people; and, these days, we should be willing to pay a premium for what is often a dying art.

What would be your dream find?
I am always searching for something that is so beautiful it makes me cry… a piece of art that sings with human ingenuity and a good heart.

Washington Post: May 2024

The designer who wants to change the way you think about clothes.

Evan Kinori mentions Santa Fe Dry Goods as an outpost of pleasure and for a particular way of thinking and shopping that is not only more “sustainable” but also more beautiful.

Evan Kinori at his exhibition at JDJ Gallery in Manhattan, featuring his clothing and furniture. (Makeda Sandford for The Washington Post)

By Rachel Tashjian

The ultimate takeaway from Kinori’s show is that our relationship to desire — to wanting clothes, to seeking them out, to keeping them — is broken. Many Kinori customers talk about the system that his clothing inhabits, how it all looks so good together and changes so infrequently, making it easier to get dressed but also, in the beauty of its design and execution, offers continual pleasure.

Kinori is not the only figure in fashion with this philosophy, though he is one of its most outspoken. Stoffa, Casey Casey, Paul Harnden and Lauren Manoogian also take an obsessively alternative approach to making and marketing clothes — a category often referred to as slow fashion. Stores like Worthwhile in Charleston, S.C., C’H’C’M in New York, Santa Fe Dry Goods in New Mexico and Reliquary in San Francisco (which was the first store to carry Kinori’s clothes) function almost as outposts for this way of thinking and shopping. Many of these names have flown under the radar for years, though its wearers often run the risk of fetishizing them.

House Beautiful: September 2023

The Best Home Stores in America Right Now, According to Editors

Best Glassware

The hip shop sells clothes from independent designers, while its artisan arm, Wild Life, stocks handmade glass, ceramics, and more.

—House Beautiful

Introducing: Ziggy Chen


Shanghai-born designer Ziggy Chen launched his namesake label in 2012 with the goal of crafting a line that blends modern elegance with practicality.

After studying fashion in the early 1990s, Ziggy Chen became a university lecturer on the subject of textile design. He then worked on the corporate side of fashion. After 20 years in the industry, at the age of 40, Ziggy gave himself permission to pursue his wildest dreams: venturing out to design his own clothing collection.

In 2013, Ziggy decided to produce his own custom fabrics, with a penchant for the natural fibers of wool, cotton, hemp and linen. Developing his designs starting from the perspective of how they will lay on the body, Ziggy believes the comfort of the wearer is his highest priority.

Inspired by his studies of history, architecture, photography and painting, Ziggy Chen’s aesthetic is primarily shaped by his understanding of the past and his appreciation for objects that transcend time. He explains, “Some [objects] are housed in majestic and splendid museums, others are buried in flea markets, but all of these things have one thing in common: they have a beauty that we cannot see in this day and age.” 

With a throughline of both material innovation and high quality fabrics, each of Ziggy Chen’s collections build upon the designer’s prior seasons. Ziggy is particularly interested in the lived-in patina of unpretentious antique furniture and textiles. He notes a particular fondness for both Eastern and Western clothing from the 17th and 18th centuries, whose techniques are nearly unmatched by those produced in modern times.

Shirking a precious notion of perfection, Ziggy explains “Much of my inspiration for patterns and details in my clothing comes from tools, pottery, textiles and furniture that have been used, deformed, and broken down over time.”

For Ziggy Chen’s latest delivery, the designer has mined ancient books and antique fabrics from his private collection — cutting and reassembling them — to create unique prints on both the interior and exterior of his pieces. By yarn-dying and over-dyeing his expertly cut fabrics, Ziggy creates highly dimensional pieces that drape beautifully on the body.

“Rather than creating clothes that make you feel like someone else – for example, when you wear something and you immediately feel like you’re a different person – I want the clothes to feel like a part of you.”

-Ziggy Chen


Veranda Magazine: December 2023

Veranda Magazine names Santa Fe Dry Goods as a must-visit store in Santa Fe.

How to Spend a Perfect Weekend in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe Regional Airport welcomes just a handful of flights each day. Since the vast majority of visitors connect somewhere else and have spent most of the travel day living off in-flight coffee and cookies, food is typically the first thing on their minds. Before heading to a late lunch, drop your bags at Rosewood Inn Of the Anasazi, a true respite just off Santa Fe Plaza in the heart of downtown. Resist the urge to sink into a cozy chair by the fire in the library or your rustic-meets-refined room (there will be plenty of time for that later) because it’s time to eat.

Walk down the street to The Shed, an award-winning, family-run establishment that opened back in 1953 and continues to serve up some of the tastiest New Mexican cooking in the area. You can’t go wrong with the traditional posole. Be sure to save room for the tamales smothered in red and green chile sauce. Afterward, bop into some of the lovely curated shops — notably Los Poblanos Farm Shop NorteHeritage By Hand, and Santa Fe Dry Goods.

Santa Fe New Mexican: July 2018

Santa Fe Dry Goods owner opens third shop, with items for the home

The owner of Santa Fe Dry Goods and its neighbor, Workshop, two retail shops facing the Plaza on Old Santa Fe Trail, has added a third store: Wild Life.

By Joseph Ditzler

Wild Life specializes in handcrafted items for the home — tumblers by British glassblower Michael Ruh, tableware by Christiane Perrochon, ceramics by Astier de Villatte, for example.

“I would describe it as a focus on accessories for the home that have high levels of finishing but have their roots in cultures from around the world,” said company owner Shobhan Porter. “Nothing we’re trying to do is trying to be flashy in any way, shape or form. There’s always an earthy or artistic nature to what we bring in.”

Wild Life opened in March after a three-month restoration of the 2,000-square-foot space inside the Catron Block, a spot formerly occupied by Gift N’ Gourmet, which moved to Water Street and Old Santa Fe Trail. The interior restoration by contractor Douglas Maahs removed layers of wallpaper to reveal what’s left of the circa-1890s original wall covering, visible in remnants near the ceiling.

Outside, Maahs’ crew also uncovered four iron columns, two each flanking the entrances to Wild Life and Workshop, a women’s clothing and accessories store next door. Maahs reconfigured the two storefronts to suggest something of the original design of those spaces. The historic structure has undergone several alterations in its 127-year history, including the addition of the portal in the late 1960s.

“I would say the idea was to give it a flavor of the memory of what it was. In the original building, there were actually a downstairs, window wells and stairwells in the front. The stairs are still buried under the sidewalk,” Maahs said.

In addition to removing decades worth of wall covering, contractors lifted layers of flooring to get to the original surface of worn, narrow boards, Porter said. To reach it, workers removed a barn-style floor and one layer each of linoleum and tar. Earlier, Porter had stripped the layers of flooring in Workshop to find the original boards laid in a herringbone pattern.

“I think it’s one of two white pine floors in the city, but we wanted to get back to the uniformity and the handsomeness of what was that 1891 to 1912 look,” she said.

The renovations to the entrances at Wild Life and Workshop went through the review process by the city Historic Districts Review Board. The Catron Block is considered a “contributing structure,” meaning it adds to the historic context of the Santa Fe Downtown and Eastside Historic District. Despite the changing face of its first-story exterior, the Catron Block is the least altered of the buildings facing the Plaza in 1891, according to the Historic Santa Fe Foundation.

Porter declined to disclose the project cost, other than to say it represented a significant investment for a retail firm.

“There was a lot of interaction to get this right,” Maahs said. Porter’s drive to reveal the original interior design of her shops “was really the driving force” behind the project, he said.

The Catron Block, on the northeast side of the Plaza at East Palace Avenue, was completed in 1891 and named for the original owner, Thomas Benton Catron, a lawyer and politician who served as one of New Mexico’s first two U.S. senators after statehood.

“The Catron Block was built by the local firm of Berardinelli and Palladino in the Italianate, or, as it is sometimes called, the railroad commercial style, which in this period represented to Santa Fe’s business leaders the urgently needed modernization of the commerce district,” according to The Historic Santa Fe Foundation.

Retail has had a presence in the building from its early days. The White House, a women’s fashion store, opened on the building east front in 1912, according to the foundation website. Later, the site became The Guarantee, a department store owned and operated by Gene and Jane Petchesky and Abe and Marian Silver for more than 50 years. The Silver family still owns the building.

The highly trafficked corner naturally draws shoppers’ attention. With Wild Life, Porter now leases 10,000 square feet for the retail operation, including Dry Goods, a 26-year-old women’s fashion and accessories store, she said. She purchased the business in 2008 from her parents, Greig and Helga Porter. All three shops contribute to one lifestyle aesthetic, which emanates from Porter’s own vision.

“I’m a rummager. If I work a normal day job here, I probably spend an additional three to four hours every night looking,” she said.

She focuses expressly on handcrafted merchandise from independent designers and artisans, rather than brand-name goods from well-known manufacturers, she said.

“We try to bring in both clothing and home goods that are tied to art and maybe things that take you back to the people that make them,” Porter said. “We’re kind of counter-current. As the world goes toward commercialism, we’re trying to make our mark in the opposite vein.”