What’s fashion without a little bit of drama? For Julian Klausner, Creative Director of Dries Van Noten, it may just be his raison d’être. Fall/Winter 2025 marks Julian’s first collection for the house after its eponymous designer retired late last year. Naturally, Julian’s visual debut arrives with bated breath–and he has stepped into the spotlight with vigor.
Titled Behind the Curtain, the collection evokes the mystery of theatre—specifically the tension between perfected performances and the magical chaos backstage. The runway show was held in the Palais Garnier in Paris, one of the world’s most famous opera houses. Julian designed his garments with this specific venue in mind, evoking the opulent pageantry of its Napoleonic interior.
The collection is rich in tactile contrast, exploring tension between shimmering versus matte, structured versus fluid and austerity versus exuberance. Deep jewel tones define the palette, alongside dramatic metallics and crystalline beads. While Julian holds a deep reverence for the aesthetic history of the Dries name—a facet obvious through his dedication to texture and tailoring—his distinct approach permeates this delivery.
In addition to a subdued take on prints, updated proportions, an emphasis on embellishment and an operatic tone forecast the house’s future.There will be more to share as we receive the remainder of this collection over the next few weeks but for now we can say: we are totally captivated by the show.
A Supporting Cast of Accessories
Just as performance can be heightened through props, accessories are key to styling this collection. Belts, shoes and bags have all been carefully considered as supporting characters in the overall look, creating the layers of delicious texture intended by Julian’s design. This first delivery focuses on shoes, with more to come as October unfolds.
