Author Archive

New Péro: Pretty in Plaid

Woolen peacoats, silky tops, sweeping palazzo pants…

For pre-fall, designer Aneeth Arora is back to classics. Her line, Péro, is one we look to for a dose of playful nostalgia – quintessential shapes and familiar patterns rendered through Aneeth’s distinctly cultural aesthetic lens. In contrast to the rich florals of her spring collection, this first delivery is defined by a dynamic palette of raspberry and chocolate plaids.

Aneeth’s take on plaid and tartan, while sentimental, maintains a stylish edge. She often references the 70s and 80s in her line… plaids, in particular, were a symbol of revolution during this time period worn by rockers and rebels alike. Aneeth confronts modern blasé with the same vigor, co-opting traditionally feminine cues for the contemporary wardrobe.

Aside from the seamless blending of generational identity and personal voice, one of the most incredible elements of a Péro piece is the attention to texture. Using exclusively handmade fabrics, Aneeth and her team are able to carefully attune the way their works feel on skin.

For those who covet the garden, fear not—Aneeth’s trademark florals still sprout within this delivery. Find sprays of English roses tucked between the plaids, hidden in the silk lining of two coats (one of which is reversible) as well as the center frame for a gauzy cotton scarf. Additionally, we have received one of Péro’s most precious offerings: a special coat from their archive. Circa 2015, this limited-edition piece is exuberantly hand-embroidered with a bas-relief of stitched and beaded flowers. Vibrant carnations and daisies make up the core of the design, with the occasional tufted bud shooting up from the silken fabric. Most notable within the bouquet is hibiscus, a tropical bloom that doesn’t often feature in Péro’s oeuvre.

From the Mecca of Japanese Denim: Cottle

Denim Dreams

Established in 2015, Cottle is a relatively young brand… though you wouldn’t be able to tell that from their collections. These are pieces that meld the sophistication of couture, the casual cool of Japanese denim and the intense academia of ancestral dyes… all seasoned with a healthy dash of Americana. The creative genius of this union lies partly in the high-caliber creative background of its designers, Toshiaki and Yukari Watanabe. The rest of it is influenced by its environment: Kojima, Japan—the birthplace of Japanese denim and a modern mecca for indigo dye.

True to the history of Kojima, all manner of dyes make up the Cottle toolbox—it’s not unusual to find the deep cobalt of traditional indigo alongside Sumi Ink (pine soot), Hinoki (cypress bark) and Kakishibu (persimmon tannins). Toshiaki and Yukari are wholly dedicated to the processes and challenges of working with natural materials from seed to style, going as far as developing their own sewing thread from cotton and hemp.

The Cottle studio is headquartered in a renovated 130-year-old former textile factory in the same historic district where Japan’s first jeans were produced. You wouldn’t know it from a map, but just down the road are beaches so pristine they rival Australia’s Gold Coast. This nexus between cultural heft and modern leisure permeates the collection. Afterall, their brand ethos is to create an unfussy uniform for living. Though artful, their pieces are comfortable and endlessly wearable. And their denim, though new, has been worn-in so distinctly that you might think it’s a well-loved vintage weathered and salt-washed by decades of ocean air.

Album di Famiglia’s Velvet Touch

The New Fall 2024 Collection

Album di Famiglia’s approach is one of consistency. Season after season, designer Monica Rusconi and her siblings, Giovanni and Patrizia, deliver pieces that are smart, straightforward, and easily layerable… each crafted with a simplicity that belies the deft touch of a seasoned atelier. Their studio is based in Lomazzo after all—a small, medieval township just north of Milan, in a province best known for its high craft and luxurious textiles.

Album di Famiglia is a feel first, everything-else-second brand. If the fabric doesn’t make your skin sing, the Rusconis won’t work with it. Slippy silks and soft cottons are what they are typically known for, however their Fall/Winter 2024 is defined by a selection of lush cotton velvets in rich earth-tones. In addition, we have also received a handful of the studio’s limited edition Serie Numerata works. These are the handknit Dolcevita sweaters—one made with cashmere, the other lofty alpaca and cotton.

The Golden Silk of Christian Peau

Among our arrivals for fall came a real treat—fresh silk pieces from the indomitable Christian Peau studio in Japan. 

A newer addition to our family of beauty, designer Junji Koike continues to impress us with his incredible skill. Much like Junji himself, these pieces deserve a higher level of attention and reverence. What makes a Christian Peau piece most phenomenal are the subtle details. The tight gathering of a skirt that hangs just right against the hips, distressed ties at the neck that can be fashioned into a bow, hidden drawstrings that reshape the silhouette all comprise the foundational notes of Junji’s visual symphony.

The Christian Peau studio prefers to use a fabric called Golden Silk, a textile made by wild silkworms native to Southeast Asia. When woven flat, as you see in Christian Peau, it is particularly shiny, vivid and strong. It has a high sericin content, which glues the silk threads together to form the silkworm’s cocoons. As the sericin dries, it can harden and evolve. While this element adds structure to Golden Silk (a much needed counterweight that keeps the garments from being too gossamer and fiddly), it is a historically difficult fiber to dye. Rather than shy away from the challenge, Junji embraces it with vigor to create his unique textures and finishes.

We had the pleasure of hosting Junji this past August in Workshop. He is as emphatic and delightful as you would expect from someone who designs like this—a thoughtful, high-taste artist with just the right amount of playful curiosity and charm. He was joined by his daughter Hana, who you may see featured frequently on the brand’s instagram. Both of them traveled from Kobe, Japan to visit with us. We were lucky to experience a traditional Japanese tea ceremony led by Hana, and to have the opportunity to know the two of them more deeply. We hope you enjoy this newest collection and we look forward to sharing the brilliance of this one-of-a-kind studio with all of you into the future.

Toogood FW24: The Urbanist’s Adventure

The newest delivery from UK-based Toogood takes us into the wild.

The last few years have seen the blurring of lines between formal and casual, vocation and lifestyle, urban and rural. This blend has relaxed previously rigid norms and flung open the door for creativity, practicality, and, for Faye and Erica Toogood, adventure. The Fall/Winter 2024 delivery of the sisters’ namesake line is their 21st collection—a number associated with continuity, maturity and flow. In Toogood’s case, their evolution took them into the wild. No longer content to simply see the landscape, Faye and Erica wanted to experience it… and ultimately thread that exposure back into their designs.

Toogood | Draughtsman Soft Cotton Shirt in Arctic Check & The Wayfinder Organic Cotton Coat
Toogood | Wistman’s Wood National Nature Reserve

This delivery toes the line between leisure and pursuit. Utilitarian details, such as deep pockets and snappy buttons, contrast against oversized silhouettes and textured layers. Distressed blue and brown Woodland dyes read like well-worn denim in both a shirt and pant style. True to the Toogood ethos, the pieces honor the artisan origins of their inspiration—find in this collection Botanist tops, Forager trousers and camo-printed Hunter scarves.

Through Toogood, we discover the wardrobe of an adventurer, defined largely by sporty shapes and lightweight fabrics made to move through the forest. One of the most distinctive pieces is the Wayfinder coat, a parka-style rendered in vibrant blue and brown camouflage. In pulling on the pieces—complemented well by a hiking boot and a canteen—the imagination is set free into Erica and Faye’s great beyond.

Toogood | The Draughtman Soft Cotton Shirt in Arctic Check

“An urbanist finds themself on the side of a mountain, deep in woodland, under a big sky. Take a closer look at the print on their shirt and you’ll see it’s a forager’s map, pointing out which plants are safe to eat. Their coat is hand-painted camouflage. They are wearing layers of textured wool and technical ripstop – performance wear, ancient and modern. They tend a fire, tie knots and [thread] together a daisy chain.”

– Faye Toogood

Introducing Karen Liberman

Every one of us has a piece of jewelry with significant personal meaning. The ring that commemorates lasting love, the sparkly earrings we bought ourselves after our first real paycheck, the pearl necklace handed down from generation to generation… For Melbourne-based designer Karen Liberman, her piece of significance is a carved filigree bracelet gifted by her mother. First acquired by her spice-trading grandfather, the bangle was bartered in exchange for tea and sugar. Where it was before that… only the imagination can tell. This is where her fascination with gold is born: the long, magical and sometimes hidden histories of heirloom jewelry.

Born in Tel Aviv to Moroccan and Polish parents, Karen maintains a strong connection to her North African and Mediterranean roots. Though her influences lie across history, Ancient Etruscan motifs are particularly strong throughout her oeuvre. Like other favorite designers in our cases, such as Denise Betesh and Tovi Farber, Karen favors the ancestral practice of granulation.

An attention—intensive process, granulation is the act of fusing tiny gold spheres for ornamentation. These minute rounds join other historical carving techniques to create layers of delicate texture across the 18K gold settings.

Though the entire collection is stunning, we would be remiss not to mention two particular standouts. One is a traditionally set trilogy ring featuring a fiery cognac diamond flanked by two teal diamonds—a rare, natural blue varietal. The other highlight is an antique roman coin pendant studded with a ring of inset brown diamonds. A traveller and collector at heart, Karen works alongside professional numismatists to source the authentic coins in her jewelry.